Of all the grape varieties used in the product of wine, one of the most misunderstood and under-rated is Riesling. Long considered one of the 'noble' grape varieties, it produces wines of elegance and sophistication that can run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet but are usually made in dry or semi-dry styles.

With its delicious tropical and orchard fruit flavours of grapefruit, peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements all types of foods and offers a wide range of characteristics, from easy-drinking fruity summer wines, to liquid conundrums that assault the palate with their hedonistic texture.

Certain wine-producing regions have demonstrated the ability to produce top-notch Riesling. Without a doubt, the finest Rieslings come from Germany, where, like BC, they are particularly suited to the cooler climate (Riesling vines are particularly hard-wooded and are tolerant of cold weather).

The best of these come from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or Mosel for short. Here the wines are traditionally low in alcohol (7.5-9.5%) and have a perfect balance between acidity, freshness of flavour and aromatic richness. Some of these wines can age better than any other white wine and will develop astounding complexity over time without losing the vivaciousness that makes them so appealing in their youth.

A way word of caution, though. Like any major purchase, a little due diligence goes a long way. Do your research on any wines you are designating for your cellar and long-term storage.

After Germany, Alsace is the next best source of great Riesling, particularly in those vineyard sites that have been designated Grand Cru. This is the most Germanic region of France and it is the only region in France where the Riesling grape is permitted. Here the variety makes an ideal aperitif and it tends to be drier, more powerful and have a higher alcohol level (often 12%) compared with its German counterpart.

Dry, refined and delicately fruity, the aromas are elegant and sophisticated with mineral or floral notes and can have all the characteristics of great white Burgundies with a dose of crisp acid, giving it good ageing potential. They are a perfect match with shellfish appetizers, cured meats and heavy cuisines of all types.

BC Riesling is probably best known for the Icewine that is produced from it. However, there is a whole different world of Riesling available to the consumer all you have to do is look. The aromas and flavours of BC Riesling are stunning to say the least and because this variety is a late ripener and one of the last varieties to be picked, it shows very well in BC and especially around the Kelowna area.

One of the finest I’ve had is from the former Pinot Reach winery, now Tantalus. I have had the chance to sample a selection of the Rieslings from this vineyard dating from 1994, ’96, ’97, ’99 and 2000 and to say that BC Rieslings do not age well this proves that myth wrong.

Australia is the country more known for its Shiraz but the Rieslings from Australia are one of a kind. They are typically dry and light bodied with refreshing acidity. Always un-wooded, some of the best Australian Riesling are produced in the cool climate Clare and Eden Valleys and in Coonawarra were they make wines that are intensely aromatic with citrus and tropical fruit and a palate that is bone dry with crisp acidity. They display the characteristics of the grape that we expect: the perfume, the complexity and the zestiness but its dryness makes it a superior match to food.

So join the ABC crowd (Anything But Chardonnay) and discover what Riesling holds for you. It’s the perfect wine, whether it is winter or summer, just right to enjoy with family and friends. Better still, if it has a screw cap or Stelvin closure, it will keep the wine fresh and lively. But that’s another story.

In Vino Veritas

Weekend Riesling Picks:

The 2007 St. Urbans-Hof Riesling ($24 PWS) is a delicious wine bursting with vibrant aromas of green apple, peach, pear, apricot, nectarine, lime, with hints of tropical pineapple and grapefruit.  The palate is brimming with honeyed apple, peach, pear, with a soft, luscious texture and crisp acidity on the creamy, lingering finish.  Very hard not to guzzle this wine it is so decadent it has got to be the best QBA that I have had in years.  One of the best value Rieslings on the planet?  You decide!!

One of the best Riesling’s in BC, the 2007 Wild Goose Riesling ($20 PWS) is literally bursting with fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple, and lime with hints of apricot, nectarine and honey. Loaded with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit, the super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling, there is very little of this left at the retail level so grab some while you can.

The 2008 Tantalus Riesling ($27 PWS) is the fourth release from the former Pinot Reach winery. A vibrant, refreshing Riesling, quite reminiscent of the lively Clare Valley Rieslings, this wine is full of juicy peach, red apple and grapefruit with hints of mineral, honey and petrol. A classic Riesling in every sense of the word, this is one of the best BC Rieslings on the market. Will definitely benefit with cellaring for up to 10+ years.

Piesport is one the most well-known wine-gro­wing villages along the Mosel River and the 2006 Deinhard Piesporter ($14-$17) is a great example of the type of wine produced here. The vineyards in this region are covered with crumbled slate, which is constantly deteriorating and nourishing the soil. Crisp and clean with fresh aromas and flavours of apple, peach, poached pear, citrus and honey with a hint of a slate minerality, this is perfect wine to pair with light seafood, chicken, veal or spicy dishes. The hint of mineral paired with the fruit characteristic of Riesling reflects the distinctive taste of wines from the Mosel. An elegant and refined Riesling of noble origin.

Gehringer Brothers winemaker and co-owner Walter Gehringer has crafted a fantastic wine with the 2007 Gehringer Brothers Classic Riesling ($15-$17 PWS & GLS). This has everything that a delicious Riesling should have. Packed with concentrated aromas of fresh apple, nectarine, peach, apricot, grapefruit, apple and spiced honey, the wine is fermented off dry to balance the crisp acidity. Perfect with spicy grilled Thai prawns.

The 2006 Prospect Winery ‘Larch Tree Hill’ Riesling ($13-$16 PWS & GLS) has aromas of ripe peaches, pears, crisp green apple and fresh lime with fresh grapefruit, pineapple and sweet mango. The palate is full of juicy orchard fruit with some sweetness from the residual sugars but it is nicely balanced by the mouth-watering acidity giving this crisp and fruity wine a delicious finish.

The opportunities to spend a pile of money on a bottle of wine are plentiful and nowhere is this more evident than in our own backyard where we are seeing the price of a bottle of BC wine reach $60 plus. Nevertheless, with an international wine glut still happening, there is a tremendous opportunity to grab some great valued wines, both here and abroad. However, maneuvering the array of bottles on a wine shop’s shelf can be a tricky business because the bargains stand shoulder to shoulder with the duds.

When shopping for wine, plan to spend a little time looking over the choices and becoming familiar with the labels. Some of the slickest labels hide shabby wines and some of the most unassuming presentations offer surprising delights. One of the best ways to find a good wine is to ask the store staff their favourite wines and see if their choices match your palate.

So, what makes a great valued wine? Everyone has a different concept of this from the easy drinking $10 quaffer to sumptuous and rich $50-$75 wines. However, the common perception is that the wine has to be cheap to be great value. Wine making technology has changed and a $10 wine now delivers a decent wine and the same holds true of the $50 wine. Although the $50 wine may be expensive, it could very well deliver quality normally be found in wines much more expensive, so both categories can be classified as great value.

But basically, you want to find a wine that pleases your palate and your pocketbook and will compliment the food you enjoy.

There are many different varietals from all over the world worth discovering. Do not be afraid to try out an unfamiliar grape.

If you discover a bottle of wine that has a funny taste, do not feel shy about taking it back. It may be corked, its taste affected by a faulty cork. If it has been exposed to air or too warm of storage, it may be “oxidized” or “maderized”, showing a brown tinge and heavy, stale smell. Retailers often find out about a problem with a shipment because a consumer takes the time to return wine. You should get your money back with a smile.

However, a wine is not bad just because you do not like it. In this type of situation, you should just chalk it up to wine education and move on.

When receiving recommendations from friends, wine magazines and even in this column, keep in mind that wine is very subjective. What I like may not be your cup-of-tea and visa-versa.

Here are some of my choices for value wines.

The 2005 Cartwheel Shiraz ($14 PWS) is an elegant Shiraz with a lot of depth and is not overdone like some other Shiraz.  Look for bright garnet colour, ripe black cherry, blueberry, and cranberry, red plum-like fruit with hints of cedar, licorice, vanilla, chocolate and a whiff of eucalyptus.  The texture on the palate has a gorgeous mouthfeel with a silky caress of ripe red and black fruit flavour, a hint of eucalyptus and a touch of earthy minerality for complexity.  Vibrant acidity, medium tannins and medium-long but silky smooth finish round out this spectacular wine.  This is an amazing Australian wine for the price.  Drink now or hold 2-4 years.

A steal of a deal, the 2006 Velletri Centurio ($14 PWS) from Lazio (Latium) is stunning. Produced from the native Cesanese (45%), Montepulciano (25%) and Merlot (30%), this is a fantastic wine chock full of characteristic aromas of sweet black cherries, black raspberries, figs, prunes, licorice, roasted meat, and baked earth with cedar and dried bay leaves. The palate is full and lush with flavours of creamy black cherry, raspberry-jam, chocolate pudding, leather, vanilla and spice. Serve with your favourite Italian meal, hopefully a big piece of something rich and flavourful. An undiscovered treasure, this is one of the best Italian reds on the market.

From the east coast of Italy in Abruzzo, the 2008 Tollo Montepulciano D’Abruzzo ($12 PWS) is a dark ruby red colour with rich, spicy black cherry, raspberry, black plum, chocolate, and tobacco leaf followed by smoke, prune, licorice and graphite. The spicy oak dominates on the palate but blows off to reveal tasty chocolate and raspberry flavours. The palate is velvety with soft acidity and ample but approachable tannins. Great value in a litre size bottle.

A fantastic value from the south of France, the 2007 Three Winds Syrah ($14-$16 PWS & GLS) boasts a rich dark purple, almost black colour with ripe fruit aromas of blackberry, jammy raspberry, blueberry, and cherry with hints of roasted red pepper, smoked bacon, leather, sweet licorice, sage, menthol and tobacco leaf. The palate is full of juicy red and black fruit flavour, with spicy pepperiness, grilled sausage, licorice, great weight and a long spicy finish.  Somewhat tight, the wine reveals all its hidden secrets with 30 minutes of decanting.  Lots of complexity in a wine at this price point, this is excellent to enjoy now with the BBQ or cellar over the next year.

The 2006 Conquista Malbec ($15 PWS) is another great value red from Argentina (Is there such as thing as a bad bargain from Argentina?). Absolutely incredible, the Conquista is intense with aromas of smoked meat (think pastrami), loads of juicy, spicy blackberry, cassis, dried black olives, anise and leather. The palate is soft and velvety with black raspberries, black currant, crushed berries, cocoa and grilled meat, with medium to full-bodied with silky smooth acidity and medium tannin.

One of the best values around is the 2007 Calona ‘Artist Series’ Chardonnay ($12 PWS). This delicious, fruit-forward Chardonnay is full of fresh aromas of green apples, white peach skin, pears, lots of fresh tropical pineapple and grapefruit character and a hint of a buttery/nuttiness. The texture is rich and juicy for a wine at this price with crisp mouth-watering acidity, just enough to balance the tropical and orchard fruit without being aggressive. Excellent to pair with a bucket of steamed prawns.

In Vino Veritas

BTOW (Beer of the Week):

Pyramid Brewery Thunderhead IPA $6.00/.650ml

An excellent IPA from the tiny Pyramid Brewery in Seattle, Thunderhead is a hop lovers dream. Pouring out a beautiful golden orange colour with a beige head, the aroma is distinctively hoppy with loads of citrus, grapefruit, and mandarin orange, with a chewy, biscuity malt backbone. Slightly sweet on the palate, the citrussy hops on the finish add the right amount of balance.

There is just one more week until the unofficial start of summer, when all the kids are out of school and that plaintive cry..."I have nothing to do" begins. So, now is as good as time as any to take a look at a selection of wines and beers to enjoy over the summer season.

Typically we will be entertaining around the BBQ, enjoying the company of friends and family so pricing is essential. This is not the time to bring out the very special wines you have been cellaring. This is the time of year where value and flavour counts utmost in our buying patterns. What's more, during this time the food that shows up on our table is inclined to be fresh produce from the farm with the condiments being less heavy, the cooking becoming simpler and the wine and beer is fresher and lighter.

When considering pairing wine and beer with summer grilling, you should think about the style of the beverage, i.e. is it light-bodied or a heavier style. Both styles will determine the type of food to pair it with.

Beer can be as complex as wine and in some cases, even more so. Traditional comprised of four ingredients, water, malt, hops and yeast, the malt which is most always barley can be roasted to a certain degree, much like coffee beans, to produce a desired flavour. The addition of hops is a very key ingredient as there are many types of hops available with varying degrees of alpha acids, which is essential to the taste and finish of the beer.

When considering wines for summer, we seem to fall back to the standard of reds and whites but what about rosés. If you are in any of the great wine regions of the world on a blistering hot day, what people are drinking are rosés. These are the perfect patio wines to serve fresh, fruit-driven wines with crisp, lively acidity.

Sparkling wines seem to be always associated with a celebration of some sort whether it’s a wedding or New Years Eve. In fact, they are well suited to the summertime, seemingly able to quench the thirst and give more pleasure particularly ones produced by the Charmat method. These sparkling wines with their effervescence, crisp acidity and lighter weight make them wonderful dinner companions. The sparkle gives an added element that is superb with deep-fried foods like shrimp tempura or baked pastry. Sparkling wine also counterbalances the spiciness in hot peppers and its crisp acidity cuts cleanly through dishes that are rich or a little oily like salmon or caviar along with many soft cheeses.

Summer white wines fall into the same criteria as sparkling wines…they should be crisp, clean wines with vibrant, racy acidity that borders on a mouth-watering, thirst-quenching texture. Leave behind those heavy, oak-dominated Chardonnays and try a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from BC or New Zealand. A Riesling from BC or a Pinot Grigio from Italy or goes well with almost any light meat such as chicken, veal, pork, pheasant, turkey or quail.

Red wines are still the favourite for the backyard B-B-Q but instead of the heavy reds of winter opt for some of the lighter, fruit-driven styles that are available. Zinfandels are the perfect summer red with most being soft and fruit-driven wines. For grilled chicken or salmon fillets, go with a Pinot Noir. Or try a Gamay if you having burgers, pasta or grilled panini sandwiches. It even goes with fish. If an inch thick rib-eye is on the menu, check out a Carmenere from Chile or a Malbec from Argentina.

In Vino Veritas

Weekend Wine Picks:

The Pike Kilt-Lifter Scotch Ale ($17 per 6-pack) is a Single Malt Whisky drinker’s beer. An excellent tipple, this classic Scotch-styled ale pours out a dark-copper colour with a thick, fluffy beige coloured head. The aroma is super yummy with a rich malty goodness, rich dark caramel, a pleasant smokiness that is not overdone, and a terrific malty sweetness to it. The flavour follows suit with buckets of dark caramel and toffee sweetness, lightly hopped with a strong, sweet malt character and just a hint of peaty smokiness. Again the peat is there but not overwhelmingly smoky, it adds just enough for balance. The hops play an underlying role towards the finish with a slight crisp bite. Great feel, very well rounded, and smooth and the low carbonation makes this creamy beer a treat to drink.  Fantastic with sausages roasted over the campfire.

One of the finer sparkling wines made in the valley, the Summerhill Cipes Brut NV ($23 PWS) is a Riesling based sparkling wine, which makes for a decidedly more interesting drop of wine. There’s loads of fresh green apple here with peach, pear, apricot, citrus and a hint of toast with a refreshing sprinkling of effervescence and a balance of natural acidity on the crisp finish. Tart, dry and crisp with toasty, nutty, floral, baked apple and candied citrus peel flavours and a long mouth-watering finish.

The 2007 Undurraga Pinot Noir Reserva ($16-$18 PWS & GLS) boasts a deep, rich purple colour, great concentration of black plum, black cherry, and strawberry with creamy vanilla, licorice, smoky, toasted oak and a hint of earth. The texture on the palate is voluptuous with ripe red and black fruit flavours, toasty oak, licorice and a silky, mouth filling finish.

The 2007 Gabbiano Pinot Grigio ($14 PWS) is a straw-gold coloured wine with aromas of white flower, pear, honeydew melon and pineapple. A citrus flavour on the palate delivers complex characteristics of green apple, orange and hints of lemon-lime. The palate is lively and full created by the excellent harmony of fruit and acid. A light-bodied, with a long finish that reveals hints of citrus and almonds, it is best to be enjoyed with pasta primavera, or with grilled seafood.

Produced from 80 year-old vines, the 2007 Gnarly Head Old Vines ($22.90 PWS & GLS) is an opaque blackish purple red with deep purple streaks, a slightly crimson red rim with super high viscosity. Intense aromas of crushed black fruits, dominated by blackberries, toasty oak, beef jerky, spice rack, black licorice sticks, plum jam, black pepper and an earthy, mineral content. There are massive flavours of spicy black fruit with underlying licorice root, reductive black fruit stew, ripe plums, pepper with subtle vanilla from oak, massive tannin structure, a balanced firm mid-palate and a long finish, peppered with spice. Enjoy now-2010. Absolutely stunning!!!!

Sourced from a small block of vines planted in 1999 at the Sandhill Estate Vineyard, the 2007 Sandhill Gamay ($22-$24 PWS & GLS) boasts a rich, dark colour, the aromas of blackberry, licorice, menthol, chocolate and cedar leap out of the glass. Intensely flavoured with lush juicy black fruit, sweet licorice, balanced acidity and tannins, this wine tastes more like a big juicy Merlot than a soft Gamay but who cares…this is one superb wine. Beautifully balanced between the lush black fruit character, the velvety soft acidity and the firm tannins, this wine can be aged for another 2 years but it is delicious to enjoy now for its youth and vitality. Grilled meats are de rigueur for this wine.

Weekend Events:

This weekend, be sure to join in the fun at the 3rd Annual Smoke on the Water International BBQ Festival taking place at Waterfront Park on June 21st (Father’s Day). This fun-filled day has something for everyone from kids in the Kidzone to the BBQ Marketplace where you can purchase some of the sponsors authentic Southern BBQ’d food and a wide range of award winning hot sauces and BBQ sauces.

The highlight of the day is the Professional BBQ Competition, which is the central part of the entire Smoke on the Water Festival. Teams from B.C., Alberta, and the United States compete in four main categories (beef brisket, pork shoulder (pulled pork), chicken, pork ribs) including the “Iron Chef” competition where the teams are required to cook using a mystery ingredient that is not unveiled until competition starts.

For more info, go to:

Smoke on the Water

A look at blush and Rosé (roe-zay) wines

The warm weather has finally arrived in BC and that means backyard BBQ’s. While our thoughts may turn to cold, thirst-quenching beers and crisp, mouth-watering whites, there is one other wine category that has been very badly mistreated over the last couple of decades. Granted, it is probably the fault of certain wine producers who have made appalling examples of the wine. However, it seems that there may be a revolution underway, albeit a quiet one. Rosé and blush wines are becoming the beverage of choice to enjoy when the weather turns warm.

Now, rosé and blush wine are two different names for the same wine with rosé being the European term while blush is a North American name. They can be produced strictly from red grapes or a combination of red and white wines, blended together to achieve a particular colour. Both wines can be awful or they can be spectacular, it just depends on how and what the winemaker wants to achieve. Both have been described as the red wine drinkers white wine because it can sometimes bridge the gap between the two styles, red and white.

The production of Rose involves breaking the skins of a red grape, allowing the juice to mix with the skins to extract some colour and some of the grape’s characteristics. Fermentation then continues as normal for a white wine, most often in stainless steel. The intensity of colour will vary, depending on the grape varieties used and the length of time the skins remain in contact with the juice. Extended skin contact will yield a wine almost red in colour while a very short maceration period may produce a wine that is nearly but not quite white. The finished wines are typically ready to drink early, not meant to age. The whole process is called Saignée (say-NAY), which means, “to bleed.”

Many so-called wine experts look down their noses at rose or blush wines, describing them as “simple” and “lacking complexity.” While this may be somewhat true in that they are not full-bodied red or lush white wines, the better rosés do have a complexity not found in other wines. A short time ago, no self-respecting wine drinker would touch the stuff, as pink wine meant sweet white zinfandel, tasting of candy floss and bubble gum. Then the wine world discovered the pleasures of superb French rosés, Italian rosatos and Spanish rosados, dry, crisp pink wines that are perfect for summertime dining. How can anyone be pretentious when they are drinking a pink wine? There is enough seriousness, if not downright snobbery about wine already. Rosés wines are all about fun and pleasure.

Good rosés are fruity, with high acidity and the best ones have the freshness of a white wine with some of the tannins and depth of a red. Out of fashion are the sugary, sweet wines such as White Zinfandel, White Merlot, and others of the same ilk. Crisp, dry rosés are becoming the trend and they are fantastic with typical summer fare, barbecues, and picnics. They are easy and light, perfect for a casual atmosphere, with a mild flavour and good acidity levels, allowing for pairing with a wide variety of foods and they are best enjoyed chilled and therefore are refreshing on a warm/hot afternoon.

This weekend, we take a look at some of the excellent roses that are on the market, both local and imported. On a hot, Okanagan day, these wines are fantastic.

One of the best BC rosés I have tried is the 2008 Joie Rosé ($25.90 PWS). A blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Pinot Gris, this is an intense wine with aromas of strawberry and cherry with a just a hint of sweetness but still dry and crisp. A superb Rosé not too unlike the classic Tavel Rosé of southern Rhone. All of the wines from Joie are sold out upon release from the winery and are only available in limited amounts at selected, private wine shops.

The 2006 Arrowleaf Red Feather ($13.90 PWS) is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay showing vibrant aromas and flavours of fresh pineapple, pink grapefruit, strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and ripe peach.  This flavoursome, well-balanced wine is perfect for picnics or on the patio before dinner. Finished with a screw cap for the ultimate in freshness.

A consistent ‘BC Best Buy Rosé’, the 2006 Sumac Ridge ‘Cellar Selection’ Rose ($12.90 PWS) is a blend of Gamay along with Ehrenfelser and Muscat. Loaded with fresh summer fruits like wild cherries, strawberry and lychee, from the Muscat, this is a great summer sipper, fermented dry, with a little spritzy and just a hint of sweetness to it.

The non-vintage Summerhill ‘Cipes’ Pinot Noir Brut ($35.90 PWS) is the perfect summer bubbly to start off a summer evening dinner party. This is a medium bodied wine that shows aromas and flavours of fresh raspberries, strawberries, and creamy sweet apple with hints of apricots, ripe peaches, pears and lime zest. Very thirst-quenching.

The 2007 Mission Hill Rose ($18 PWS) is a delicious blend of Merlot and Pinot Noir, sourced from vineyards from around Oliver, Naramata Bench, and Osoyoos. Boasting fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plum, with hints of orange blossoms, watermelon, and pomegranate. The palate has just a hint of sweetness but balanced by crisp acidity allowing the fresh citrus and red fruits to shine through. We had this with spiced prawns, spicy pork Choy Mein and Lemon Chicken and it was superb.

A great tasting and one helluva deal, the 2007 Greata Ranch Rose ($11 PWS) is simply delicious. The deepest hue of pink I have ever seen, this is definitely a red wine drinkers Rose. Showcasing rich maraschino cherry, strawberry, raspberry aromas with subtle hints of pineapple, pink grapefruit and spicy ginger, the palate is crisp with just a suggestion of sweetness to it. Very clean and crisp on the finish, this is best served well chilled on a hot Okanagan day with simple appetizers and maybe a BBQ’d ham.

In Vino Veritas