Departed June 13 from Valley Moto Sport.

First Entry: June 17

After only four days on the road, my body is beat up. I obviously underestimated how much strain riding a fully loaded off-road motorcycle can be. The weather has been reasonable. We got our first taste of rain when we rolled into Chilliwack. The good news is the rain is keeping the dust to a minimum. The KTM 950’s are holding up well. Lost a few bolts because of the vibrations and pounding, but they are mechanically sound. We estimate the bikes weigh more than 600 pounds fully loaded, including extra fuel.

I’ve come to realize that Terry and I have similar personalities. We are bull-headed and stubborn. Could get interesting.

We plan on heading to Maple Ridge and later to Whistler to cover more off-road motorcycling events. Would like to ride Vancouver Island, but have been told that the logging companies control access to the roads. It would be a shame to take the ferry all the way over there only to find out we can’t ride the backcountry.

CHBC News Report

Link: Off The Map Photo Gallery

June 20

The sprint up north continues in earnest. Stayed at this incredibly rustic cabin at the edge of Gaspard Lake --- south of Williams Lake. The view was somewhat disturbing with a sea of red instead of green as a result of the devastating destruction by the Mountain Pine Beetle.

Our goal to ride dirt instead of pavement is holding up with the odd exception where we have no choice including a closed ferry at Big Bar north of Clinton.

Have to be in Prince George Saturday to pick up new Dunlop Rallies (tires). After that, we continue hard toward the Alaska border.

Terry is in a great mood. He just found out about the provincial government spending more than $250,000 to turn the Bear Creek on Kelowna’s Westside into a premier off-road riding area – one of the first of its kind in Canada.

Of the British Columbians that I’ve met since the last update worth noting is an angry railway worker. He told us how he used to work for the government as a railway employee, that is until the Campbell government sold it to CN. “All they care about is the bottom line. They don’t care about the worker,” he said. The worker went on to say how his life had basically been turned upside down because his boss asked him to pick up garbage along the track.

Video -- Terry Rock Rolling

Saturday, June 23 and we’re stuck in Quesnel.

We left the town of Likely early Saturday, hoping to explore the backcountry. Bear and moose are plentiful in this neck of the woods. We took the backroad from Likely to Barkerville – an historic mining town. On our way there, we ran into our first serious mechanical problem – my kickstand snapped. Might not sound serious but imagine a 600 pound plus bike and you can’t get off it because it will fall over. Off to Quesnel we go, but wait, there’s another problem. Remember that bag cover that Terry forgot when we left? The same cover that he had couriered to Chilliwack only to lose it in the wind and find it hours later. Well, while we were booting it down to Quesnel, the bag cover came off again. We split up with Terry heading back to Barkerville to look for his cover and I’m off to Quesnel trying to find a mechanic. I find my guy. Moose is his nickname. He runs a small bike repair shop and is the only game in town. Generous guy too. Took care of my kickstand at no charge (I slipped a $20 in his pocket). “I admire what you guys are doing. Happy to do it.”
Thanks Moose.

Getting back to the bag cover. After a long wait, Terry shows up minus the cover. I was kind of relieved because that cover has jinxed us from the start costing precious time. We should have been in Prince George picking up out new tires but we would not have been able to get them installed and balanced as the shops were closed till Monday.

It all works out though because we’ve scheduled an interview with the head of the local dirt bike club. After, we’re going to head into the Cariboo Mountain range next to the Rockies for some serious exploring. My goal is to catch a grizzly on tape. I did see a cow moose and her calf but I couldn’t hit the record button fast enough before they vanished into the thick bush.

One memory worth sharing is Terry and I coming across a fawn on the side of a logging road with two mature deer nearby. The fawn simply lay on the side of the road, not moving a muscle. We thought it was seriously injured and might have to put it out of its misery. However, we agreed to let it be and let nature takes its course. We started up the bikes and all of a sudden, the fawn springs to its feet and it’s off to the races. What a shock and relief when we realized it was paralyzed with fear instead of being mortally wounded. I got some of it on tape.

Once we get our new knobbies in PG, we’ll continue heading toward the Alaska border with some fresh rubber under us. A bientot.

Kel

Video interview with Gary Zorn -- Ecotourism Guide

Monday, June 25 and leaving Prince George with fresh tires and renewed spirits. A big thanks to Reg at Thunderstruck for picking up our tires at the bus depot and installing them. Bikers helping bikers.

The delays in Quesnel and PG have been to our advantage seeing that we got to meet with some local off-road riders and took in a motocross race in PG Sunday. These guys have their act together. The track, about 20 minutes out of town, is class-A. The layout is spectator friendly and there’s no shortage of racers including women over 40.

Despite the delays, our plan is to sprint to the Alaska border with one minor problem – we have no trail maps. Time to improvise and see what happens, but one thing is for sure – it’s going to be chilly. No colder than Kelowna though, where it snowed in Joe Rich and on the Coquihalla Monday. Can you say Global Warming? Speaking of the environment, evidence of the destruction from the Mountain Pine Beetle is everywhere in PG. The sight of one beautiful home with dying pine trees surrounding the property said it all.

Terry and I are getting along like a couple of pitbulls who have come to respect each other. There’s the odd nip, but otherwise we’re getting along great. Terry’s attention to detail is admirable, but sometimes a real pain in the butt. He’s a perfectionist and some of that has rubbed off on me – in a good way.

Let’s see if I can put it into practice.

More updates on the way and watch for a Google Earth movie in the making that will take you for a virtual tour of our journey so far.

Kel

Interview with Reg of Thunderstruck Bike Shop in Prince George

Our journey left off with us looking for some way into the deep country and get off the highway but the rain was too much and we bolted from Stewart to Quesnel where we found what we’ve been looking for – and more. Our new philosophy is to follow the good weather. We move with the sun.

Terry was in charge of navigating and he found the most incredible route that ultimately got us to Loon Lake north of Cache Creek. Getting there involved more than 300 kilometres of rolling back roads with breathtaking views. Hit some whicked ruts but haven't had a serious tip-over yet. Knock on wood.

Our GPS indicates that we’ve ridden more than 5000 km since we left Kelowna June 13. One of the highlights was Beaver Valley. Our road literally took us through a farmers property (must be a right of way). The lush green rolling hills with livestock was priceless. Right out of a pamphlet. “It just doesn’t get any better,” as Terry would say.

One thing worth noting for you GPS geeks is don’t believe everything you see and using old back road maps can get you in trouble. Enough said.

The KTM’s are a big hit. People tell us how monstrous they are. I must admit, a fully loaded 950 does look intimidating mostly because it’s so tall. You need 34 inch legs to hop-on. Most of the people who chat-us-up about the bikes are middle aged men, whose kids have moved out and they’re looking to fulfill that dream of adventure.

The generosity and hospitality from average British Columbians continues on our journey. Asking for directions can get you invited to supper. One fellow we met worth noting was a logging truck driver named Jody. I always wondered what logging truck drivers thought of dirt bikers and assumed the worst. But Jody, who happens to ride a KLX 450, said most drivers don’t mind us. Good to hear. Watching out for logging trucks is priority number one followed by deer and such. Bears are plentiful. Folks say they’re coming down to the streams for the salmon. Hope to catch some of the action in the Kootenays.

On the road again.

(BTW, here’s a video sample of Terry and I driving into Hyder, Alaska in late June. Stopping on a dock where the ocean touches the mountains.)

Kel

Video -- Rob Trethetaway in Pemberton. Honda collection

Tuesday, June 26 and we’ve had enough of the asphalt.

Ever since we left PG we’ve been riding asphalt due to the lack of trails or logging roads. We rode up Highway 16 and further north along highway 37 toward Stewart which is at the west southern tip of the Alaska border. Stewart is not only one of the most picturesque areas I’ve ever seen with its glaciers and waterfalls, but it also gets a lot of snow.

In fact, the townsfolk say Stewart was buried under 35 feet last winter. Much of the snow is still around and has kind of put a dent in our tour. Terry and I were planning on seeing this mammoth glacier called the Bear Glacier, but the road is closed because there’s too much snow in the mountains. We bought a post card instead. Stewart is also unique because it borders with a dead-end town called Hyder. I say dead end because you can’t get out. Hyder is also undefended, meaning there’s no border security. However, there is a Canadian customs agent that wills great you when leaving Hyder. Strange indeed.

I linked up with an American in Hyder named Chuck who runs a general store. He carries a gun and carries a heavy American accent. During the interview, he said the difference between Canadians and Americans is that we are more tolerant. Chuck also reminded me how Americans have the right to bear arms and that’s one of the reasons he carries a gun. Bears are the real reason. Although I have yet to see one up close, Chuck tells me they are plentiful, black and grizzly.

Worth noting is the Polaris snowmobile factory from Minnesota is in the area testing their new sleds for next year.

Not sure where we’re going now, but one thing is for sure, enough of the asphalt and time to hit the dirt again. We’ll work our way over to the Kootenays or maybe take in some of the Coast. That’s the beauty of being on the road is improvising. It’s always an adventure.

Interview with Alaskan Chuck Hart on Canada and the U.S.

July 1

Happy Canada Day!

Being on the road makes one appreciate how vast this country called Canada is and, I say once again that BC is by far the most beautiful. It’s rugged and yet inviting.

We last left you indicating that the Off The Map adventure would take us to the Kootenays and that was our intention up until we had a sudden change of mind. “Hell, we can go the Kootenays later, let’s give the Thompson River a try!” So off Terry and I went heading up from Kamloops along the North Thompson River on dirt roads. Our first stop was Barriere, the scene of a devastating fire in 2003 that put the town’s sawmill out of business. It also put the town out of business. We met a young man in Barriere who says the fire was actually a good thing. “It made us look at ourselves as a community and realize the good things we have here.” And off on his BMX he went.

It should be mentioned that prior to our stop in Barriere, we stayed overnight at Loon Lake Resort. Interesting place and more suited for a more energetic crowd. The goats are a bonus as was Tom’s hospitality. Good luck Tom.

After a brief stay at the Alpine Meadows Resort, a first class facility, Terry and I are off as far as the back roads to the Thompson will take us today – usually we ride till the sun goes down. Shooting for the Alberta border now, but who knows – we might change our minds.

Kel

Loon Lake Resort Manager/Owner Tom talks about his goats. (Kelly Hayes)

July 3rd and we’ve reached Revelstoke from Blue River. How we got here was interesting. We cut through the back country up the side of this logged mountainside with breathtaking views and risky drop-offs.

Our plan right now is to explore the countless backroads of southeastern BC, but some of you have been wondering where the hell we’ve been since Terry and I departed Kelowna June 13 for the month long adventure. My apologies. I’m geographically challenged, but I’ll do my best to explain it.

In a nutshell, we’ve rode more than 6500 km – most off-road. The journey began in the Lower Mainland, visiting various off-road motorcycle clubs. After that, we headed north past Whistler all the way up to Stewart where the off roads are sketchy and the rain is plentiful. In an effort to get out of the rain (and save the video equipment), we headed back toward the interior of the province.

We’re now focusing our attention on the southeast part of the province where we are guaranteed fair weather and loads of off-road riding trails.

Hope that helps.

Meantime, this is my first time in Revelstoke – and I like it. It’s scenic with snowcapped mountains in the background and the people are great. Our KTM 950 Adventures are the focus of conversation everywhere we go. One person we had the pleasure of meeting is Jaime Ryga. He grew up in Summerland and now owns Selkirk Mountain Helicopters Ltd. I called up Jaime and told him that I was shooting a documentary. Next thing you know, Terry and I are flying 40 feet above a glacier in one of Jaime’s helicopters. Simply incredible footage and I’ve inserted a short demo below to give you a taste. If you’re ever in the Revelstoke area, check out www.smheli.com and take a tour.

I’ve shot more than 1200 minutes of tape, not the mention hundreds of pictures which I will be adding to the site as we go along. Robin Jones at Castanet tells me that he's putting the finishing touches on the much anticipated Google Earth movie and it should be on the site very soon. He'll also be adding some short demo videos.

Now we're off to Trout Lake in the Kootenays where the hillbillies apparently live. Might even take in some fishing.

Keep checking for updates.

Kel

Revelstoke Selkirk Mountain Helicopter Tour

Fast forward from Revelstoke to a little village called Trout Lake, nestled in the East Kootenays.

With a population of 22 in the summer months (double in winter), Trout Lake can best be described as a refuge for those wanting to get away from civilization and under an hours drive from Nakusp for supplies. Despite its tiny size, Trout lakes has a general store, café and is home to the historic Windsor Hotel. The 1892 hotel is apparently haunted and is one of the few original buildings still standing in the old mining town. It also has a taste of Kelowna to it as Jessee and Andrea Nixon purchased the building a year ago and are making a go of it. The Nixon’s also own Kelowna’s Eldorado Hotel.

Trout Lake is also home of a little known sport called NoBoarding. It consists of a snowboard minus the bindings. You hold on to a rope for balance until you begin surfing on the powder. It’s for the snowboarder who is looking for something new. The sport was created by the late Greg Todds – a local resident who died two years ago in an avalanche. Everyone in town does it. There’s even a binding burning party. No lack of snow here in the winter. It dumped 34 feet of snow last winter.

The locals are an interesting bunch. Mostly mine workers peppered with support staff including cooks, etc. One fellow that left an impression on me was Noah. He liked to tell stories about bears. “I’m not scared of bears. In fact, they’re scared of me.” Noah claims to have fended off grizzlies with his war cry. I hope he doesn’t run into a bear that is hard of hearing.

Terry and I liked Trout Lake so much we stayed for an extra day to take a break from 20 days of riding. We spent the day off sitting on the front porch, chatting with strangers about anything under the sun. But that’s all changes as we resume our journey, concentrating on the Kootenays where another piece of paradise awaits.

Kel

Video interview with Noah Strickland of Trout Lake

Link: More on Windsor Hotel

After more than 24 days of riding, our bodies want to stop for rest but Off The Map forges on. We’ve covered more than 6,800 km since we left Kelowna on June 13.

Our latest off-road travel has taken us from Trout Lake, a ferry across Kootenay Lake and heading to the U.S. border via the Cranbrook area. Our plan was to take the Ram Forestry Road to the old border crossing at Flathead – a bumpy logging road with no shortage of rocks and steep drop-offs. But Flathead is no ordinary border point. It’s deep in the forest and Canada’s customs office consists of boarded up buildings, meaning one can travel at will. At least it appeared that way, but the locals tell me the U.S. monitors the area with satellites and video surveillance that can track you down if you’re up to no good. I was also amazed to see that both nations actually cut a swath through the forest to highlight the border. It’s also the second undefended US border we’ve run into on our journey with Stewart/Hyder Alaska being the first.

Satellite phone came in handy again. Actually managed to get in touch with Liz and John of Power104 and keep them up to date on the journey.

We’re in the middle of a heat wave down here and it’s sucked the energy out of me. Terry and I are trying to keep hydrated as much as possible and wearing full bike gear doesn’t help. The KTM’s are performing flawlessly, even in the grueling heat.

Now that we’ve covered much of the province, Off The Map is slowly making its way home with stops in Yahk, Trail, Castlegar, etc. We also plan on heading up Christian Valley – a must see. One thing I still haven’t seen is the elusive grizzly. There are some around, one of the forestry guys in Elko says that one of his employees was mauled by a grizzly and it attacked another worker who fended off the grizz with bear spray. Stories like that sends shivers down my spine when camping. More updates on the way.

Updated photo gallery and I've added another video, but this is a special one. It's my first attempt at the dashcam.

Happy trails.

Kel

Dashcam (Kelly Hayes)

Link: More on Flathead

Running along the border is what Off The Map has been up to since the last update.

Cranbrook, Creston, Salmo, Christina Lake -- just some of the towns where we’ve re-fueled before heading back into the backcountry.

The trails have been superb – even for a 950 KTM dual sport. My favourite section was the old Kettle Valley Railway on our way from Castlegar to Christina Lake. What really makes the trip interesting are the tunnels and steep drop offs. The route is also part of the Trans Canada Trail network where motorized vehicles are permitted.

While riding down the railway bed, I interviewed a man named Ed. His past-time is riding around on his ATV with his dog Rick. Ed is also handicapped and is fighting for the right to have motorized access to the entire Trans Canada Trail. “I wrote some of the premiers,” says Ed sitting in his ATV that resembles a small jeep. “Alberta has responded and they seem pretty nice, but I haven’t heard anything from BC yet.”

Ed brings up an interesting point. Should there be an exemption for the handicapped to have motorized access to the entire Trans Canada Trail? Ironically, Ed also used to work for the railway company that built the track.

We also ran into the guys at the Salmo Creston motocross track. Impressive facility with families showing up on a Sunday to let their kids ride in a designated and managed area.

Something funny happened on the way to the gas station Sunday in Creston. Terry pulls up to a pump and is confronted by a woman in a flashy VW who claims she was next in line. Terry moves on and the woman later apologizes for her small outburst. We chat and she drives away – without paying. A gas and dash right in front of our eyes. Smooth.

The wave. For you non-riders, motorcyclists have a custom of waving to each other. Not a big wave, but a nod of the head or drop of the hand. It has to look cool and subtle. But I don’t wave to all riders. No, not me. I’m very selective in who I wave to. The guys on the Harleys I ignore for the simple reason that they are too cool and they don’t wave to anyone unless you drive a Harley. But I must admit that I too have become a wave snob. I no longer wave to anyone on a moped or riding a bike below 125 cc. Waving to cars is also a no-no.

So Off The Map is quickly wrapping up. We’re heading into Christian Valley and working our way back north to the Central Okanagan. When we do get home, we will have covered more than 8,000 kilometres in four weeks. It’s been a month of adventure and leaves me wondering what’s around the next corner?

Kel

Check out updated photo gallery

July 11. Kelowna.

One has to leave home in order to appreciate it and it’s nice to be back in Kelowna.

The last time I saw Terry, my mechanic and navigator, was at the side of a logging road near Big White at 6:00 am Tuesday, July 10 offering me a candy bar and a smoke as a cure for my illness. I limped home and my bike ran out of gas when I pulled up to my house. Good to the last drop. The KTM 950’s ran superbly and no one got hurt. Not bad considering the trip consisted of more than 8000 kilometres -- mostly dirt roads.

To sum it up, Off The Map is only halfway done. The video production is next – set for September 2007. Much of the trip was video and photo documented with countless landscapes and interesting interviews with average British Columbians who have an extra ordinary story to tell. Watch for Off The Map -- the video, on Castanet in September.

For now, we’ll let the dozens of pictures in the Off The Map photo gallery tell the story.

People you meet along the way, like Greg Falls and his broken down bike. (Kelly Hayes)

Link: Link to latest photos (Kelly Hayes)