Castanet
Wine Gourmet
The flavour profile of Sauvignon Blanc can vary depending on where it is grown in the world. (Photo: Flickr user, rivard)
The flavour profile of Sauvignon Blanc can vary depending on where it is grown in the world. (Photo: Flickr user, rivard)

Sauvignon Blanc
by Contributed - Story: 38431
Apr 4, 2008 / 5:00 am

Sauvignon Blanc, is pronounced (SO-veen-yawn BLONK).

While there is a plethora of great tasting white wines currently on the market, mainly oak-dominated Chardonnay, why not try something completely different. There is a certain grape variety that is growing in popularity and which delivers a sharp variation to all others, producing an outstanding wine with a profusion of different aromas and flavours. The grape is Sauvignon Blanc, and although seen by many as too light and acidic to make "serious" wines, this variety is a refreshing departure from the trend to over-oak everything.

Originally from the Bordeaux region of France, the grape gets it name from the French word “sauvage” which means wild and Blanc, which is self-explanatory. It also has the distinction of being one of the parents of the king of red grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon. However, it is the tiny island of New Zealand that has taken this European variety to new heights, producing racy wines with a wide range of flavours, from tropical fruit and gooseberry to green apple and bell pepper.

The flavour profile of Sauvignon Blanc can vary depending on where it is grown in the world. New Zealanders liken it to "gooseberry,” but that is not a familiar smell or flavour to most North Americans. Kiwi is somewhat similar to Gooseberry.

Quite often Sauvignon Blanc can pick up an aggressive cat-box, bell pepper or green bean aroma when the grapes lack sun exposure or are harvested under-ripe. Clonal selection and viticultural practices that expose the grapes to more sunlight will yield a wine that has a more tropical-like aroma.

Barrel-fermenting Sauvignon Blanc, a winemaking practice not used a lot for this variety when compared to Chardonnay, can also alter the aroma and add certain complexities. Blending with Semillon is a common practice in Bordeaux and other areas, which can add an oily richness and being lower in acid than Sauvignon can soften the sometimes-abrasive character, much the same way as what Merlot does for Cabernet.

At its best, Sauvignon Blanc grapes produce wines with searing acidity and a multitude of fruit flavours. In New Zealand, it has become a celebrity where it started to draw world attention in the 1980s. It has since been acclaimed by wine writers throughout the world as the definitive benchmark style for the varietal and there are two different styles that have emerged over the years.

Riper, richer fruit aromas and flavours of melon, nectarine and other stone fruits tend to originate from the warmer climate of the North Island and the typically lighter and crisper style with passion-fruit and other pungent fruit flavours as well as red pepper, gooseberry and herbal characters come from the Southern Island.

Here in BC, it is becoming an important variety, replacing Riesling as the 5th largest grown white grape in BC. It has steadily increased in size from a meagre 589-ton production in 2004 to just over 900 tons in 2006. Currently, there are 300 acres of Sauvignon Blanc planted. (Source: B.C.W.I. 2006 Acreage Survey)

Sauvignon Blanc is a very versatile food wine that can complement everything from shellfish and Caesar salad to fried chicken and aged Jarlsberg cheese. It will also compliment foods with herbs such thyme, rosemary, basil, tarragon and coriander and white meats such as chicken, veal, turkey and pork. The leaner, greener versions of Sauvignon Blanc are dynamite with food especially Thai dishes, vegetables, white-fleshed fish and shellfish while the fuller styles are an awesome match for the richer dishes you might usually associate with Chardonnay. Whatever the style, this is a wine that has a place at the BBQ this summer. Enjoy.

Weekend Sauvignon Blanc Picks:
Note: PWS means Private Liquor Store and GLS means Government Liquor Store

One of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc’s and one of the best values on the market is the 2007 Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc ($13-$15 PWS & GLS). Loaded with fresh aromas of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruit, pineapple and green apple with hints of peaches, lime and melon. The crisp, racy acidity on the delicious, mouth-watering, finish makes this the perfect match with oysters, steamed mussels, shrimps, prawns, crab or lobster, most fish courses and salads.

The San Medin Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($14.90 PWS) is produced by the Torres family from Spain from vineyards they purchased in Chile. A delicious, great value wine, this is loaded with fresh grapefruit, pineapple, passion fruit, gooseberry and kiwi with mouth-watering, zingy, crisp acidity and clean fresh fruit flavour. The palate is crisp, attractive and easy drinking with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours. A great accompaniment to seafood or as an aperitif.

The Stags’ Hollow Winery in OK Falls produces an exceptional Sauvignon Blanc. The 2006 Stags’ Hollow Sauvignon Blanc ($21.90 PWS) is loaded with complex aromas of crisp kiwi, grapefruit, pineapple, gooseberry, and passion fruit with hints of lime and honeydew. The flavours are all tropical and citrus fruits with a hint of honey and a crisp, refreshing finish. One of the best Sauvignon Blanc’s from the valley and VERY limited

A classic ripe, full-bodied Marlborough wine, the 2007 Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc ($19-$21 PWS & GLS) is loaded with intense passion fruit, gooseberry, pineapple, peach and nectarine aromas with hints of steely, mineral notes. The palate is full of fresh, ripe tropical fruit with a rich sweet apricot flavour, mouth-watering lemon-lime zest and mineral flavours that lingering on the finish, like biting into a ripe green apple. Ripe and fruity with bright zesty acidity and a delicious spiciness, the finish is long, full, and well balanced.

Awarded “Best of Category” at the 2007 All Canadian Wine Championships, the 2006 Gehringer Brothers Sauvignon Blanc ($18.90 PWS) shows intense varietal characteristics of rich passion fruit, grapefruit, kiwi, melon, white peach along with a hint of fresh cut green grass. The rich palate from the extended skin contact prior to fermentation gives the wine a mouth coating texture with fresh acidity on the long finish. A classic food pairing with this would be a goat cheese stuffed chicken breast with a mushroom sauce, steamed shellfish and grilled vegetables or risottos.

A superb addition to the range of Sauvignon Blanc’s available from BC, the 2006 Prospect ‘Council’s Punch Bowl’ Sauvignon Blanc ($17.90 PWS) is a classic. Displaying copious amounts of lush tropical pineapple, grapefruit, and kiwi fruit with hints of fennel, sage, and tarragon, this is a delicious North American version that pays homage to New Zealand but still retains the North American influence. The palate is racy and crisp with a succulent, mouth filling texture of tropical and orchard fruit with just a hint of greenness for complexity. The finish is dynamite with clean, crisp mouth-watering acidity that just begs for goat cheese. I paired this with sautéed chicken breasts stuffed with creamy goat cheese. Stunning.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin





About the author...

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than three decades. Originally from Vancouver where he started with the provincial BCLDB, Jim discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux that was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. Trying his hand at making wine from Zinfandel grapes one year gave him an appreciation for the trials and tribulations encountered by winemakers. The wine turned out to be spectacular.

A turning point was in 1986 when he was placed in charge of the wine selection at one of the top specialty wine stores in B.C. Through this he became involved with the specialty wine store at the Vancouver International Wine festival from 1988-1992. All of these events led to his advancement to the position of Wine Consultant at key specialty wine stores in West Vancouver and Whistler where he set up the wine selections and helped restaurants develop their wine lists. It was while in Whistler that he acquired the nickname "Corky".

In 1996, after returning to work from a lengthy illness, he felt it was time for a move and left the lower mainland for the sunny climes of the Okanagan, settling in Kelowna with his wife Patti and their 4 children. Here he became involved with the local wine industry by sitting on the VQA panel and serving as a wine judge on occasion. He also continued to work with restaurants, speaking at wine events and dinners.

In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines and most recently with Metro Liquor. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines and Central Park to now include almost 700 people who receive up-to-date wine news every week. Jim started writing the Wine Gourmet column for Castanet on a wide variety of subjects pertaining to wine and the global wine industry in the fall of 2004.

Jim is well respected by the wine community and is best known for his approachable and knowledgeable style. Constantly trying to de-emphasize the snobbery of wine, Jim is friendly and easy to talk to about all aspects of wines.

You can reach Martin at 763-2600 or email jim.martin@castanet.net or visit their website on Castanet.






The views expressed are strictly those of the author and not necessarily those of Castanet. Castanet presents its columns "as is" and does not warrant the contents.



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