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Wine Gourmet
This weekend, the 14th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival kicks off. More information in 'Spring wine picks'.  (Photo: Okanagan Wine Festival website)
This weekend, the 14th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival kicks off. More information in 'Spring wine picks'. (Photo: Okanagan Wine Festival website)

Spring wine picks
by Contributed - Story: 39055
May 2, 2008 / 5:00 am

This weekend, the 14th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival kicks off, and because of the past success of the festival, this year it has expanded to a ten-day festival. Offering a tantalizing experience for anyone who loves fabulous wine accompanied by fine cuisine, what better way is there to announce the grape growing season than to hold a Festival during bud break. Traditional, this is also when the new wine vintages are released and this year it is the 2007 whites slowly arriving with the much-anticipated reds from the 2006 soon to follow.

While the 2005 vintage was quite small in terms of tons of grapes harvested with just over 14,000 tons grapes, the quality of the grapes were excellent due to smaller berries hence greater concentration of flavours. However, the 2006 vintage rebounded with a superb harvest, with over 20,000 tons of grapes harvested. This is an almost 50% increase and an almost 12 million litres of wine. “The quality and the quantity of the 2006 crop were fantastic,” says George Heiss, proprietor Gray Monk Estate Winery in the northern Okanagan. “I’ve been doing this since 1972 and I consider 2006 to be one of the better years. With our whites, the flavours are much more pronounced than both the ‘04 and ‘05 vintages,” Heiss added.

Nirmal Gidda, proprietor of the family owned Mount Boucherie Estate Winery, says, “The harvest has been A1. The sugar levels are high, the Ph and acid levels are where we want them, and the quality of the grapes is exceptional.”

Senka Tennant, winemaker for Black Hills Winery on the Black Sage Bench in the Southern Okanagan, added, “My personal view was this vintage was a red year. The late grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc really benefited from the 2006 growing season.” Tennant added, “My feeling was 2006 was the best Cabernet year we’ve ever had.”

The highlight of the festival is the Consumer Tasting at the Laurel Packinghouse where you can explore some of these wines that are being produced throughout the valley. With over 35 wineries present and over 150 wines to sample, this is a great event for those trying wines for the first time as well as those who want to expand their wine knowledge. A word of caution, though. If you are thinking of attending any events during the ten days, buy your tickets early. Tastings and winemaker dinner events tend to sell-out rather quickly. Check out their website at www.owfs.com for a list of events and dinners.

While the arrival of the 2006 reds and 2007 whites is just around the corner, there is still good quantities of the ‘05 reds and ‘06 whites on store shelves. These wines have had a whole year in the bottle to fully develop the complex aromas and flavours that newly released wines have difficulty showing because of their young age. Now is the time to reap the rewards of that extra year in the bottle.

Voted as being the “Best Sparkling Wine of the Year” in Canada at the 2007 All Canadian Wine Championships, the Summerhill Cipes Brut NV ($22.90) is Riesling-based, which makes for a decidedly more interesting drop of wine. There’s loads of fresh green apple here with peach, pear, apricot, citrus and a hint of toast with a refreshing sprinkling of effervescence and a balance of natural acidity on the crisp finish. Tart, dry and crisp with toasty, nutty, floral, baked apple and candied citrus peel flavours and a long mouth-watering finish.

One of the tastiest and best value Pinot Noirs around is the 2006 Prospect Winery ‘Rock Wren’ Pinot Noir ($16.90). A typical Pinot Noir in every sense of the word with its silky smooth texture, rich black cherry/strawberry fruit, and creamy vanilla with hints of toast, dill and spice. Super-soft acidity and firm tannins on the finish will allow this wine to develop over the next 3 months, just perfect for summer entertaining.

The top Riesling in Canada award at the 2007 Canadian Wine Championships went to the 2006 Wild Goose Riesling ($19.90). Literally bursting with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit, look for fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple, and lime with hints of apricot, nectarine and honey. The super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling. There is very little of this left at the retail level so grab yours while you can.

The 2006 Desert Hills Gamay ($21.90) is not your average Gamay. The gang at Desert Hills on the Black Sage Road have taken this grape to the next level, producing a lush, concentrated wine, with intense aromas of ripe black cherry, black raspberry, cassis, vanilla, cedar, sweet licorice with clove and black pepper spice. The texture on the palate is soft, round and supple with spicy clove, roasted meat, black cherry with coffee and chocolate flavours. One of the best Gamays in the valley.

Sourced from the spectacular Sandhill Family Estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan, the 2006 Sandhill Chardonnay ($21.90) is loaded with rich aromas of buttery Fuji apple, pear, pineapple, with spicy white pepper and a lush creamy palate. The texture is rich and creamy with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours with spicy white pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and honey. This is a rich style of Chardonnay, more in keeping with a Meursault. The finish is crisp and clean with an almost Chablis-like minerality to it.

One of the new winery’s to pop up on the radar is Quinta Ferreira. Their 2005 Syrah ($38.90) displays great colour, with rich blackberry, raspberry fruit, and smoke, and licorice and menthol aromas. The smooth acidity, firm tannins and long delicious flavour compliment the soft juicy black fruit flavour. This has had a full year to develop in the bottle and is showing immense complexity because of that. A tiny production of 500 cases means this will not be around much longer so grab your while you can.

The 2006 Desert Hills Pinot Gris ($23.90) is an amazing wine. Loaded with rich pineapple, grapefruit, mango, Fuji apple and citrus fruit aromas and flavours with hints of orange marmalade, butterscotch, creamy vanilla-scented oak. The palate is round and full-bodied with plenty of lush tropical and orchard fruit flavours with crisp acidity and a long juicy, mouth-watering finish. Absolutely one of the best Pinot Gris’ in BC.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin





About the author...

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than three decades. Originally from Vancouver where he started with the provincial BCLDB, Jim discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux that was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. Trying his hand at making wine from Zinfandel grapes one year gave him an appreciation for the trials and tribulations encountered by winemakers. The wine turned out to be spectacular.

A turning point was in 1986 when he was placed in charge of the wine selection at one of the top specialty wine stores in B.C. Through this he became involved with the specialty wine store at the Vancouver International Wine festival from 1988-1992. All of these events led to his advancement to the position of Wine Consultant at key specialty wine stores in West Vancouver and Whistler where he set up the wine selections and helped restaurants develop their wine lists. It was while in Whistler that he acquired the nickname "Corky".

In 1996, after returning to work from a lengthy illness, he felt it was time for a move and left the lower mainland for the sunny climes of the Okanagan, settling in Kelowna with his wife Patti and their 4 children. Here he became involved with the local wine industry by sitting on the VQA panel and serving as a wine judge on occasion. He also continued to work with restaurants, speaking at wine events and dinners.

In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines and most recently with Metro Liquor. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines and Central Park to now include almost 700 people who receive up-to-date wine news every week. Jim started writing the Wine Gourmet column for Castanet on a wide variety of subjects pertaining to wine and the global wine industry in the fall of 2004.

Jim is well respected by the wine community and is best known for his approachable and knowledgeable style. Constantly trying to de-emphasize the snobbery of wine, Jim is friendly and easy to talk to about all aspects of wines.

You can reach Martin at 763-2600 or email jim.martin@castanet.net or visit their website on Castanet.






The views expressed are strictly those of the author and not necessarily those of Castanet. Castanet presents its columns "as is" and does not warrant the contents.



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