"What's in a name?
That which we call a Syrah/Shiraz by any other name would smell as sweet".

With apologies to William Shakespeare for destroying his much-revered quote from Romeo and Juliet, Syrah/Shiraz has been causing some confusion over the past few years. Numerous myths and legends have existed about its origin and the differences between the two.

First off, they are the same variety. It was thought that the name came from the legend that the grape originally came from the Iranian city of Shiraz, which was brought to southern France by a returning crusader, Guy De'Sterimberg or by the Greeks, depending on which story you are reading. It is also thought to have acquired its name from a story that the Romans brought the grape to the Rhone Valley from Syracuse, in Italy, during their occupation.

However, DNA profiling performed by Professor Carole Meredith at the University of California at Davis and Jean-Michel Boursiquot at the wine research facility at Montpellier, France in 1998, determined that Syrah is indigenous to the Rhone valley of France. It is a natural cross of Dureza from the northern Ardeche region, west of the Rhone and Mondeuse Blanche, native to the Savoie region, to the east of the Rhone. How this love-match came to be is anyone’s guess but it is known that the grape was growing around the time of the Roman occupation in the 1st century AD. From France, the vine found its way to Australia courtesy of James Busby who, after studying viticulture in France, took 437 vine cuttings with him to Australia in 1831.

In Australia, it is the most widely planted grape, typically representing 40% of the red grape crush and one-fifth of total grape production and there are distinctive styles of Shiraz that have emerged. It can be made into a wide range, defined by the terroir of the region and the winemakers' artistry, from the elegant, peppery cool climate styles (Heathcote in Victoria) to more intensely flavoured spicy styles of Coonawarra and Margaret River to powerful and minty (Clare Valley), sweet and chocolaty (McLaren Vale), muscular, and ripe-fruited (Barossa), and leathery and rich (Hunter Valley). In an attempt to allow regional characters to be expressed, many winemakers are moving away from 100% new American oak, preferring the use of older barrels and/or French oak. The result is an abundance of new styles with finesse and complexity.

Recognized as Shiraz mainly in Australia, some Shiraz’s are also produced in California. A relative newcomer to California, vine cuttings were brought to California only in 1936 by Dr. Harold P. Olmo of the University of California, Davis. However, it has only been in the last decade that the U.S. has gone ga-ga for Syrah/Shiraz.

Syrah, on the other hand, is known for the big, muscular wines of the northern Rhone and as one of the varieties for the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In the northern Rhone, they are not categorized as Syrah but are labeled as Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Cote Rôtie. Here the grape produces wines that are raspberry and blackcurrant-scented with hints of cherry, smoke and roasted meat. In the southern Rhone, it is used as blending material where it provides the necessary colour and fragrance.

To further confuse matters, there is a variety called Petite Sirah that is actually a cross-pollination with a French grape called Durif and a variety called Peloursin. This grape was developed by a Dr. Durif around 1880, in his experimental vineyard at the University of Montpellier in southern France.

Whichever style you favour, there is no denying the fact this grape is becoming very popular. If you have not tried either style yet, get down to your local bottle shop, pick up a few, and have a Syrah-Shiraz party. That is what wine is for...enjoyment with family and friends.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin

Weekend Wine Picks: A selection of Shiraz/Syrah

From Chile, the 2006 Casillero del Diablo Shiraz ($14 GLS) has everything you would want in a Shiraz. With a deep, rich colour, this is loaded to the brim with tons of blackberry, cassis, black plum jam-like fruit with hints of chocolate, licorice, tar, roasted meat, sage, smoke, menthol and vanilla. The palate is rich, lush and spicy with lots of black fruit, spicy pepper, crisp, smoky acidity and medium tannins. One of best bang-for-your-bucks Syrah/Shiraz on the market, this should be on everyone’s summer wine list.

One of the top selling wines in BC, the 2007 Obikwa Shiraz ($11-$12 PWS & GLS) is extravagantly rich and flavoursome, at a truly remarkable price. Displaying characteristics of a wine at a much larger price point, this wine is full of rich, smoky/roasted red peppers, blackberry, cassis, and blueberry, with hints of prunes, licorice, leather, black olives and savoury herbs. The texture on the palate is medium-bodied with prune, blackberry, leather, tobacco and menthol. Soft acidity and medium tannins round out this spectacular QPR. Excellent with grilled baby back ribs, lamb chops or steak.

A soft and juicy wine from the Costières de Nîmes in southern France, the 2005 Chateau de Valcombe Syrah-Grenache ($13-$15 PWS & GLS) is a blend 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache coming from the oldest vines on the Valcombe property. It is not a big, muscular wine but it is a concentrated, opaque purple coloured wine, full of soft, rich, blackberry, and black plum jam aromas with dark chocolate, chocolate, smoke and vanilla notes. The flavours are ripe and flavourful with excellent weight and balance. While it is delicious to enjoy right now, it could be cellared away for another year. Let it breathe for an hour or so and serve with roasts, beef stew, lamb, or strong cheeses. Love the screwcap.

Argentina continues its dominance in the BC market and prime example of the reason why is the 2006 Pascual Toso Syrah ($15 PWS). This tasty little BBQ red is loaded with savoury blackberry, cassis, black plum, and blueberry, literally full of delicious fruit aromas with hints of roasted sausage, roasted red peppers, licorice, chocolate, vanilla, cedar and spicy pepper. The texture is chunky and full with ripe black fruit, pepper, tobacco leaf, cedar and smoke. Rich velvety finish with soft acidity and ultra-firm tannins, this wine could do with some cellaring but it is perfect with any type of grilled red meats.

The new vintage of this perennial great buy has been released and the 2006 Jackson Triggs Reserve Shiraz ($20-$25 PWS & GLS) seems to be a repeat of the very successful ’05. Displaying an abundant, heady aroma of rich cassis, blackberry, and raspberry jam-like qualities with vanilla, chocolate, and smoke, the texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its lush black fruit texture with hints of vanilla, chocolate and leather with velvety soft acidity and firm tannins. A very well balanced wine, it can be enjoyed now for the sheer pleasure of it or cellar for another 3-5 years.

A stunning expression of Aussie Shiraz, the 2006 Winners Tank Shiraz ($29 PWS) is a perennial “Best Buy” when it comes to Aussie reds. Chock full of super-ripe blackberry, blueberry, boyensberry and cassis-like character with licorice, menthol, roasted coffee beans, and tobacco leaf. The palate is rich and lush with juicy black fruit, black pepper spice, velvety soft acidity and firm tannins. An absolutely killer red from Langhorne Creek.