The fantastic Okanagan summer heat that we have been experiencing makes the notion of a "summer sipper" sound mighty appealing, suggesting maybe a cool, refreshing beer or a crisp wine, possibly pink, probably white, served ice-cold in a cool moisture-beaded glass. Weather like this does not necessitate a beverage that requires nor does it deserve any type of serious contemplation or any analytical words other than the satisfied exclamation, “Holy smokes, does that ever taste good.”

Long considered one of the 'noble' grape varieties for wine making, Riesling is the classic summer sipper, known to produce wines with fresh, racy acidity and aromatic elegance that run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet. With its delicious fruit flavours of peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements all types of summer foods and offers a wide range of characteristics for easy drinking.

BC is no slouch in the Riesling department. For the most part, the wines are the made in an off-dry style but the best have intensely aromatic citrus and tropical fruit with a palate that is crisp and dry and a finish loaded with refreshing acidity. These are wines that cry out for seafood.

The 2007 Hillside Riesling ($21.90 PWS) is a very well made Riesling showcasing a pale straw colour with green hues followed by aromas of lime, lemon and grapefruit, citrus and tropical fruit. On the palate, the flavours of tropical fruit and lime are soft and caressing with crisp acidity on the finish. For those who enjoy the characteristics of aged Riesling, this wine will cellar well for another 2-3 years but it is great to enjoy now.

Chardonnay is still the king of the white grapes, global and here in BC. The intrinsically blank canvas of Chardonnay allows its flavours to be considerably altered by the differences in soil, climate and vineyard practices with the differences in winemaking techniques producing a wide variation in the flavour profile. Techniques such as barrel fermentation, aging in new or old oak barrels, lees stirring and partial, complete, or zero malolactic fermentation tend to generate debate and lively discussions amongst wine lovers.

The 2006 Wally’s Hut Chardonnay ($13.90 PWS) was a shock. At this price, one would not expect very much but the wine shows a vibrant straw-gold colour with aromas of peach, melon, citrus and vanilla. The palate is crisp and dry with medium body, offering rich flavours of apple, peach, citrus, melon, almond, and vanilla, with a nice touch of oak and a crisp and smooth finish.  Ready to enjoy now with grilled Halibut.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that is more commonly known for producing Vouvray, one of the great white wines from the Loire Valley of France. It makes wine that is fragrant, high in acid and can range in style from dry to very sweet, depending on decisions made by the winemaker and because of the high acidity in wines, they have the ability to age exceptionally well.

Newly released onto retail shelves is the 2007 Quails Gate Chenin Blanc ($22.90). Blended with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, this is a dynamite version of this variety, loaded with aromas of ripe grapefruit, pear and honey-suckle with hints of lemon-lime and a slight mineral character. The fresh tropical fruit, red apple flavours and lip-smacking, bracing acidity makes this a perfect companion with Cornish game hens on the spit, grilled oysters, lobster or swordfish.

Pinot Gris is grown in cool climate regions all over the world and is perfected suited to BC. The grape produces wines that have generous fruit aromas, with flavours of honey, apple and pear, vanilla, oak and citrus with crisp acidity, resulting in a complex array of flavours on the palate.

The 2007 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($19.20 PWS) is a big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics. The palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity. Pinot Gris is always excellent with grilled salmon and Lake Breeze is one of the best.

Seen by many as being too light and acidic to make "serious" wines, Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshing departure from the trend to over-oak everything. At its best, Sauvignon Blanc produces wines with searing acidity and a multitude of fruit flavours. In New Zealand, it became a celebrity when it started to draw world attention back in the 1980s. It is an important variety in California, Chile, and Australia and here in BC it has surpassed Riesling as the fifth largest planted white varietal. It is also sometimes blended with the low acid grape Semillon, which softens the higher acidity in the Sauvignon Blanc much like what Merlot does for Cabernet.

One of my favourite Sauvignon Blanc’s and one of the best values on the market is the 2007 Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc ($13-$15 PWS & GLS). Loaded with fresh aromas of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruit, pineapple and green apple with hints of peaches, lime and melon. The crisp, racy acidity on the delicious, mouth-watering, finish makes this the perfect match with oysters, steamed mussels, shrimps, prawns, crab or lobster, most fish courses and salads.

For summer grilling, red wine still holds top spot. The 2007 Don Domenico Syrah ($14.90 PWS) is a prime example of the great value and quality of Argentine wines. Although the palate is heightened by a little sweetness, a la Yellow Tail, the aroma and flavour of Don Domenico is ripe with lots of blackberry, black cherry, plum and raspberry jam-like characteristics with licorice, vanilla and chocolate. The texture on the palate is rich and smooth with buckets of ripe, juicy black fruit flavour followed by licorice, smoke, and vanilla. This is excellent value barbecue red that would look good on any table and is an excellent short-term wine for everyday enjoyment.

Back in the mid-80’s when Chilean wine began to show up on the store shelves, one of the first wines I ever tried was Cousin-Macul Antiguas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon. However, it was not a current vintage but a wine from the owner’s cellar, a 1974 and it was stunning. The 2005 Cousino-Macul Antiguas Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.99 PWS & GLS) has the ability to emulate that wonderful wine and also marks the 78th year that this wine has been produced. Look for rich blackberry, cassis, black cherry and blueberry, with a lightly toasted aroma of oak. The flavour is ripe with rich black fruits rounded out with bay and tobacco leaves. The tannins add an additional complexity on the finish with a hint of toasty flavour. This wine is great to enjoy now or it can be cellar for a decade at least.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin