Here is a wine question for you. What do the grape varieties Tokay d’Alsace, Grauburgunder, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Gris and Ruländer all have in common? Give up? They are all the synonyms of the same grape. A genetic mutation of the red grape, Pinot Noir, it is known by these names throughout Europe. In Italy, the grape is called Pinot Grigio and is produced in a leaner style while Pinot Gris as made in France, Germany, California, Oregon, BC and other New World areas tend to be more full-bodied, with a certain opulence and an almost oiliness which adds to the wine's texture and finish.

When fully ripe, the colour of the grape can range from bluish grey to light pinkish brown and it is not unusual to have clusters with a variety of colours. Indeed, the name “Gris” means grey in French while “Pinot” means "pine cone" hence the pine cone shape of the clusters.

In Italy, where the variety is called Pinot Grigio, the wine produced is light-bodied, often lean with refreshing apple, pear, and lemon-lime and sometimes with a spritzy, crisp, acidic texture. Grown mainly in the Friuli region of northeastern Italy, this area produces the largest quantity in the world and the style of wine was originally meant to compliment the Slovenian-influenced cuisine of the area.

German Pinot Gris is called Ruländer or Grauburgunder and is most commonly found in the southwest regions of Baden and Pfalz. Ruländer is often used to denote the sweeter version while Grauburgunder is more associated with drier, Burgundy-style versions.

Some of the finest quality of Pinot Gris comes from the Alsace region of eastern France. Here it is called Tokay d'Alsace (no relation to the Hungarian Tokay or Tokai). The Alsatians value it as a full-bodied wine that can balance the richness of their food without introducing any flavours of its own. Beginning with the 2006 vintage, Tokay d’Alsace will be called Pinot Gris as part of the agreement for Hungary's accession to the EU.

In North America, one would look to Oregon as the instigator to the Pinot Gris craze. There, as with BC, the heat-sensitive grape prefers the long, moderate summer days with cool nights and an even cooler fall. Picked early, the wine tends to be light, fruity and acidic much in the “Grigio” style while extended hang-time will bring out the rich, sweeter tropical fruit aromas and flavours. An early ripening variety, it does not fare well in hotter climates as it can ripen too fast.

Here in BC, Pinot Gris has become the second largest white grape planted, next to Chardonnay, with just over 8% of total grape crop (2007 B.C.W.I. Annual Report). In fact, Pinot Gris is often referred to as “the other white wine” and there is a very good reason for the popularity of this wine. Unlike its Italian cousin, it tends to be very fruit-forward and unlike the Oregon version, very much less expensive.

Here is a selection to temp your palate.

Pinot Gris is actually this winery’s namesake as the Austrian translation of Gray Monk is Grauer Mönch, another name for Pinot Gris. Consistently a long-time favourite of BC wine drinkers, the 2007 Gray Monk Pinot Gris ($21.90 PWS) is one of Gray Monk’s finest vintages. Loaded to the brim with luscious aromas of pink grapefruit, apricot, pear, Fuji apple with peach, nectarine and a hint of honey, the flavours of citrus and tropical fruit and honey carry on and on through to the soft, slightly sweet finish. Superb with grilled jumbo prawns or scallops with garlic butter, pan-fried Basa fillets or Fettuccine Alfredo.


Awarded ‘Best of Class’ at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, the 2007 Wild Goose Pinot Gris ($19.90 PWS) is consistently one of BC’s best Pinot Gris’. Loaded to the brim with delicate floral notes with rich fuji apple, crisp white peach, apricot pit and honey. On the palate, the texture is rich and succulent with vibrant tropical and orchard fruit flavours followed by honey, ginger and citrus. This is my all-time favourite with grilled salmon (butter-flied and skin side down).

The 2007 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($19.90 PWS) is another winner. A big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics, the palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity.

An excellent example of what this variety is capable of, the 2006 Cedar Creek Estate Select Pinot Gris ($24.15 PWS) is full of rich tropical and orchard fruit such as mango, pineapple, grapefruit, pear, and sweet apple with hints of white pepper, creamy vanilla, and toast. Concentrated, rich, and smooth with great weight on the palate, this is an excellent wine. Try this with pasta sauces such as Alfredo or grilled salmon.

The Botter winery is a family-run winery in the Piave area of northeast Italy, in Veneto. The 2006 Casal Thaulero Osco Pinot Grigio ($11-$13 PWS & GLS) is a straw-pale gold coloured wine with a green tinge. It has an intense aroma of crisp green apple, pear, peach skin, nectarines with hints of lime, citrus, orange rind and buttery lemon. The flavour on the palate is crisp lemon with tart green apple, peach pit and anise seed, a soft and well balanced texture with crisp acidity and a mouth-watering finish. Great value!!

If you are going to get a boxed wine for this summer, you might as well get a good one and the 2007 Fish Eye Pinot Grigio ($33.80/3L) is the perfect wine and a great bargain for backyard festivities and family get-togethers. This has a lively and refreshing blend of ripe apple, melon, apricot and candied ginger with intense citrusy flavours of juicy red grapefruit and mineral that lingers on the finish. It is superb to pair with sushi, shellfish (crab legs), chicken ceasar salad or enjoy this by itself during the summer heat. Works out to about $11.26 per litre. Great Value!

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin